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Favorit head gasket failure?

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Hi! My first time here.
I've always fancied a Favorit and recently bought an LXi estate, which was in a bit of a state but nothing that can't be fixed
The only real problem is that the seller told me the head gasket blew and he'd had the head skimmed and replaced the head gasket
The car starts and runs fine, there's no oil in the water or vice versa and it doesn't appear to be losing coolant.
I did a compression test and all cylinders are about 150psi, the car's only done 66k.
Problems, temperature gauge only just moves out of the
cool tho the engine heats up and the heater is hot sometimes and warm others.
My real concern is the steam (?) Coming from the exhaust followed by water droplets, this seems constant.
I'm going to replace the thermostat and the fan switch
Can anyone offer any advice?
Thanks in advance, Dave

£1 1999 1.3 Felicia

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Just wanting to show my felly off
It's a 1999 1.3 mpi 54 hp wagon which i bought from a neighbour for a £1! pretty much a sound car with a
few little issues and 165k on the clock, full service history though
The paint is pretty bad on it in places, so i just bought a spray can on ebay matching the paint code and just
sprayed it ghetto style, the bonnets mainly the worst along with the nearside below the windows.
its much better than the white that it was going but it wont win no competitions!
 
Mods:
Direnza Lowering springs 35mm with a coil cut of the front
new o.e monroe shocks all round
rear anti-roll bar (was already there!)
front arb (i added that)
genuine bbs g60 wheels 15x6 et 45, just trying to get some centre caps for them! nightmare
khumo ecsta tires 195/45/15
ebay sparco steering wheel with mk3 golf steering wheel boss
wind deflectors (because everybody else does it)
centre console
 
and some car audio stuff as well if you're interested
inPhase xtc 501 200w 13cm component speakers with the tweeters in the doors
some old pioneer 3 way 6x9 speakers in the boot which i made run flush with the boot
inPhase iPX1004 4 channel amplifier 1200 watts which run the speakers
alpine swr 12-d2 dual 2 ohm subwoofer running at 1 ohm to make 1000w RMS in a custom 1.71 cu ft gross enclosure
pioneer gmd 9601 1200w RMS @ 1 ohm amplifier just for the sub
kenwood kdc 300uv 3 preout head unit
and a juice 2.4 farad capacitor to keep the power constant 
 
the sound in my car is amazing, just need to get some carpet to finish off the sub enclosure. (i've put a port in it since the picture)
 
before
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after
 
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plans for it are:
bigger disk upgrade
redo all brake pipe and fit braided hoses because they're in v bad condition, been advisories for about 2/3 years!
repair rear arches. starting to have a bit of rot so i want to sort them before they go really bad
timing chain
and eventually i'd love to put the 1.4 polo in but that'll have to wait for a long time yet!

Felicia Special

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These are all flavors of Felicia special I know of. It would be nice to gather in this topic photos of each one of them and also what special characteristics they have.

 

Active
Arcane
Atlanta
Bergamote
Bohemia
Bonne Nuit
Color Line
Comfort
Country
Excelent
Family
Friend
Fun
Genua
Grand Air
Klif
Lato
Laurin & Klement
Magic
Mangas
Milena
Morzine
Mystery
Pacific
Pack
Palomino
Perfekt
Safe Line
Saga
Samba
Space Line
Sport Line
Ste Maxime
Tango
Tipi
Trend
Trumf
X-Line
Yellix

Selling an S100

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Hi,

 

As the title suggests I'm planning to sell my S100 due to going to see the world.

I have no idea what its worth or where the best place to try and sell it is.

 

Its a 1975 LHD S100L i bought it in 2009 and got it u.k registered. Its got an mot up to 18/10/16.

 

Whilst i've owned it its had new radiator core, clutch, electric fuel pump, electric washer pump, engine fuel lines, spark plugs, distributor, ht cables, interior handle set, new wheels and tyres.

There's probably some other bits i've done here and there but can't remember.

I also resprayed it a few years back in a matt blue as the old paint was fading and starting to be pocked with rust which is coming back again in a few places.

 

During its last mot the front nearside wheel arch and cross member had to be re welded and new front inner skin was welded in. Outside of that the only other major work was stripping and rebuilding the steering linkage and refreshing the brakes. The rest of the work carried out was realigning teh headlights, adjusting the washers and tightening the seatbelt anchors

 

The car has run whenever i've wanted it since then and is mechanically sound but could do with being tidied up aesthectically but as it has been a weekend toy for me that has never been my biggest concern. I just wanted a car i could jump in start up and cruise about in.

 

A collection of photos can be found here: http://postimg.org/gallery/2ow71hcma/

 

Any questions or advice is greatly appreciated, I'll be back home and near the car again this weekend if I need to get any more pictures or information.

 

Thanks, Benn

1.9D Black smoke

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Hi

 

Soon as I sort one problem out it seems onto next.  Perhaps truck is coming to end of life but still have long MOT ,  recently  bought new battery & starter motor and it is running /starting well so reluctant to move on

 

P reg  1.9 D  Pick Up

 

My latest problem -   Lot of black smoke from exhaust when reved at standstill  or on road

 

Changed fuel and air filter  filter made no difference

 

Removed the black box with the air inlet tubes from top of engine - everything very dirty.   Sooty - not oily

 

Cleaned everything including tubes -  but no difference

 

Any idea please ?       Injectors next I guess.   Can anyone tell me size of deep socket to remove them - it looks like 26 or 27mm but hard to tell and I do not ant to remove pipes etc till I have correct socket to hand

Felicia 1.3 petrol losing fluids!

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Hi....
New to the forum but after 6 months of driving my felicia about happily today on the way to work the oil light came on, temperature peaked and then shortly after lost power, shuddered and then gave up!
I topped the oil up and coolant then headed off to work again....I got about another mile or so before it did the same thing!
Walked to work and was a bit late!
After work took some time and then topped up the coolant to the max and checked the oil level which was still high/good....started the engine hoping all would be well but the recently topped up coolant was poring pretty quickly from underneath the left hand side of the engine....
It didn't appear to be coming out of any pipe work looking down or the radiator itself....
I fear the prognosis of my felicia may be poor!
I had the cv gator joint replaced last week but this I guess this is probably unrelated....
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.....

Felicia 1.3 MPI - runs cold + hesitation and flat spots

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Hello all,

 

I am having a couple of issues with my Felicia 1.3mpi which I am hoping to get sorted.

 

Its a 2000 "X" reg classic with the 1.3mpi engine and 75,000 miles on the clock.

 

There are two main issues, one is it doesn't hold temperature and tends to run at around 70 degrees or so, when left idling it warms up and the fan comes on when it should. I imagine this is just a thermostat issue which can be easily rectified.

 

The other problem is more confusing, when driving normally under acceleration over 2,000rpm it seems to hit various flat spots where it hesitates briefly before continuing up the rev range. This happens under normal driving and hard acceleration.

 

It also seems a little on the slow side, I know they are slow naturally but seems a little slower than my last one which was on 120k! I would say it would be flat out at around 80mph, also if driven once fully warmed up (sat in traffic) it still seems to hesitate but perhaps a little less.

 

Any help with regards to the hesitation and lack of get up and go would be great! 

 

Regards,

 

Michael.

1987 Skoda 120 LX 21st Anniversary Edition

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So it's probably about time that my car got a thread in here given that I've finally got off my lazy backside and created an account here and all that.

 

I first actually picked the car up back in 2014 from an eBay classified ad that was local to me.  Probably paid a bit over the odds for it, but the car being localish (I was based in Aberdeen back then) rather than at the other end of the country I figured was worth a bit extra and with them getting rarer, decided just to grin and bear it and pay for it.

 

The initial impression was of a car that had spent a long while sitting and had never really been properly recommissioned.  The suspension was creaky, a heap of bushes could really do with changing, the brake discs looked like something dredged off the Titanic, miles of that horrible green fabric hose were still present, the exhaust was blowing, it wouldn't idle for love nor money, and most terrifyingly it was still wearing the original tyres.  It also had the look underside of a car that had been stored for a long time, the front suspension in particular features lots of that "fluffy" looking surface rust, everything seemed solid though, you just had to attack it with a wire brush first.

 

It also decided to dump all of its coolant halfway home from buying it, with an intermittent overheating problem which was pretty quickly diagnosed as being due to a dodgy expansion tank pressure cap.  It never got that hot while I was in the car as I'm paranoid about such things and shut the engine down pretty much the moment I spotted the gauge heading north of its normal range, but I can't say what happened before I had it.  Sure enough the head gasket announced its failure by letting water into cylinders two and three if you didn't take the cap off when you shut the engine off.  It didn't actually cause any real problems, though I won't be surprised if that turns out to be somewhat responsible for the lumpy power delivery.

 

The tyres were the first item on the list though once I got it home, the originals were truly terrifying.  Going around a roundabout at anything more than 10mph resulted in tyre squeal that you would expect from a 70s US action film, and power slides were entirely possible (and at times unavoidable) even with 54bhp less however many had escaped on tap.  Ended up having to get them shipped over from Germany as nowhere in Aberdeen could track any 155SR13 tyres in the UK...not that surprising these days I guess.  Still, new rubber on there and both the ride and handling returned to about where they should be - and the wonderful steering feel I remembered from my first Estelle was restored.  It also meant that I could stop in less than half a mile which was a plus.

 

The next order of business really was just a decent service - the oil looked like something that you'd put in a fountain pen rather than engine oil, the coolant was brown rather than green, and the points were so far out of adjustment that I'm shocked the engine was even running.  The plugs were the original PAL branded ones and actually were still in fine shape, just needing the gap brought in a fraction.  Carb also got a clean, and that in conjunction with adjusting the idle speed meant that I could actually drive it in town without needing three feet to keep the engine going.  Made things a bit less stressful!  I also discovered about then that I needed new HT leads after I got an almighty belt off one of them one evening.

 

That's basically how things progressed for the next year - The head gasket remained predictable and stable and due to a house move and an Excess Of Real Life as I put it getting in the way, it just never made it to the top of the to do list.  In fact, I ended up spending several months at the far end of the country to the car due to how things worked out.  Still, eventually retrieved it and got it to a few shows here, when right at the end of the show season, literally a few hundred yards from home the head gasket finally decided that enough was enough and the temperature started to rise.  I coasted into the drive well before it headed anywhere dangerous, and decided that she could be put away under the cover until the Spring as I wasn't going to use the car in the Winter anyway.

 

...Fast forward nine months until last weekend when I finally convinced myself to get off my lazy tail and sort the Skoda before there's no show season left this year - especially as I really want to get it along to The Festival of The Unexceptional which is on the 23rd July. 

 

Having been living with a classic Saab (which has no right to be difficult to be work on, but somehow always seems to manage - I love that car, but I hate working on it with a passion - not least because components which need to be held in place by no more than an 8mm nut tightened to 10Nm will instead be held in place by a 19mm one which was tightened by Thor himself), and a 90s Citroen (lovely car to drive, but goodness it's complicated, and very much suffers from the "this car would be easy to work on if the entire car wasn't in the way" syndrome), working on the Skoda for a change was a breath of fresh air!

 

Head was off in less than an hour with one sheared exhaust manifold to silencer stud being the total drama other than me nearly knocking myself out on the corner of the engine cover at one point.  Conveniently the old gasket decided to come out in one piece entirely stuck to the head, which made cleaning the engine side of things massively easier!

 

Aside from having a right old time getting the broken stud out of the exhaust manifold, the rest of the cleanup process and readying things for reassembly went pretty much to plan.  I decided not to disturb the valves as I'd had no problems with low compression, and the engine only has 18K on the clock.  Plus I didn't have the tools to hand to disassemble the head any further.

 

Was really curious to know if this mark in the combusion chamber of cylinder number two has a story behind it though...

 

20160709_151454_zpsbwssecuy.jpg

 

There is evidence of the head having been off before (the cooling pipe clip has obviously been disturbed for one), so I wonder if this was somehow related to that.  There's no sign of damage to the piston or bore there...just this little mark.  Manufacturing defect maybe?

 

Reassembly was as they so enjoy saying in the manuals, the reverse of disassembly save for the additional step at the end of adjusting the valve clearances.  Finally got to actually use the torque wrench that I bought about five years ago for something useful!  Manual didn't state what stages to do things up in, so I went for 10Nm steps for the main head bolts and equivalently spaced steps (can't remember the math!) for the nuts on the plug side to keep the pressure even.

 

Oil, filter and coolant were then changed (during which I managed to make a terrible mess all over the driveway - completely forgot how big the drain hole in the sump was and it completely overwhelmed my poor drain pan), a new set of plugs went in and I had to take a brave pill and see if it would start (well, after cranking over for a while to build up oil pressure anyway).

 

Somewhat to my surprise she did start, first turn after I connected the coil back up and immediately settled into by far the most even idle I've ever heard from the car - if a little smoky, but having just deliberately poured oil into the cylinders as part of the reassembly process that was expected and soon cleared.  Cooling system was then bled and I looked around for any problems.

 

It turned out that the rocker cover was completely incontinent, but that was the most serious problem we found, and was one that could easily be resolved with a tiny smear of instant gasket - and I've got a proper new seal on the way anyway.

 

Now I haven't driven the car yet, but it sounds massively more responsive than before, so it may well be that I was missing quite a few horsepower due to the issues with the head gasket.  I have noted that the odd whistling/hissing noise from the front of the engine that I never managed to track down before is conspiciously absent now...so maybe it was actually leaking that badly...

 

Then set about tidying up my engine bay which actually looked like an engine bay again.

 

20160711_125145_zpsavcgaqac.jpg

 

(ten points if you can spot the thing I forgot to reattach because I'm stupid)

 

So without further ado, I got her booked in for an MOT and then started tidying things up...as the car had been sitting in a corner (albeit under a cover) for nine months, she was a mess.  Externally dull paint, dry plastic and more cobwebs than you could shake a stick at were dragging the tone down, and the interior was equally full of spiders, pine needles, and the seats were disintegrating as is so common to Estelles.  On that note, does anyone know a source of fabric that looks close to the original?  I'm planning to get my seats retrimmed at some point.

 

Firstly...those seats.  They look horrendous, are the first thing you notice when you open the door (or sooner) and really offend my OCD.

 

20160712_165404_zpswo5rs5dh.jpg

 

20160712_165356_zpspmjma9vm.jpg

 

I can't justify the cost of a few hundred quid to retrim them just yet, so covers were the order of the day.  This was the point at which I discovered to the cost of my sanity that old car seats are emphatically not the shame shape as new car seats...and as a result the exercise of attempting to make modern generic seat covers fit old car seats is an exercise in frustration that will leave you with several bleeding knuckles, several years taken off your life, and leave you having learned (or invented) several new swear words.  I did eventually manage to make them "mostly fit" as I put it.  Far from perfect, and yes it looks like the seats have cheap covers on them, but at least they are relatively inoffensive now and don't immediately leap out at you - even if the "airbag" tags on the bolsters have got to go...

 

20160712_182909_zpsi4dlzxd8.jpg

 

20160713_160925_zpsvjvbnbpn.jpg

 

While doing the final checks today for the really stupid stuff that everyone forgets to check before they leave I discovered that the windscreen washers weren't working (that's why we do these checks!) which was resolved by wiggling the contacts on the pump and that one number plate bulb was out - because I'd nicked it for one of the Saab's running lights and forgotten to replace it...oops.

 

Annoyingly, I also poked a hole in the offside sill, so there will be welding on the cards.  There are a few areas on the underside of this sill that don't look too clever either.  Will get it sorted no worries, just annoying.  Not that surprising really that some is needed given that I can't find any evidence of this car having been welded before and we all know their tendency to dissolve on contact with water.

 

20160714_163638_zps0dsxpilc.jpg

 

At least compared to doing the job on a modern car with tinfoil thick metal and complex compound curves it should be a (relatively) easy job on the Skoda.  Garage will be doing the work as my welding is (at best) poor, and the welder is currently in bits in need of a new line and torch assembly as it's been bodged once too many times (well, it was free) and literally fell apart last time I tried to use it.

 

Still, I went ahead with the prep anyway and finally slapped a couple of coats of wax on and gave all the plastics some attention.  Always forget how much of a difference to how tidy a car looks (or not) that just dressing the plastics can make.

 

Don't think she's looking too bad to be honest!  I always try to turn up to the MOT with as presentable car as possible.

 

20160714_163615A_zpsvv0unqlo.jpg

 

20160714_163603A_zps3djjesmf.jpg

 

Really need to get some white paint and touch in the lettering on the mudflaps, that's really bugging me now I've noticed it!

 

MOT is at 10 tomorrow morning, so let's see how big a shopping list I come away with.  Expecting:

 

[] At least two or three welding repairs needed on the offside sill.

[] Brake hoses don't look too clever - even if they pass, they're getting changed ASAP anyway.

[] Front discs?  They look horrendous, but the brakes work very well (easily locks the front wheels on a dry road with weight in the front) and the car stops perfectly straight, so we'll see.

[] Rear suspension bushes?  They went through the last test (at a different garage) without mention so we'll see (though so did the offside sill...and I don't see it having got that much worse in a year).  It'll be getting booked in to get those changed shortly anyhow though as I know the semi trailing arm bushes are shot which is throwing the camber out and are they cause of my creaky rear suspension.

 

Just have to see I guess! 


Clogged rain drains

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Rain drains... one of the main reasons our cars rot from the inside...

 

If one would want to check if all drains for Felicia are not clogged, where should he look?

In other words, does anyone have a list of all of them? Maybe photos with their exact locations?

Anti-Roll Bar Bush Orientation

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Can someone please tell me which way around the arb to subframe bush faces.

I know that the flat face goes against the sub frame, and it's rounded edge in the bracket.

But which way does the L-shaped cut out face? Is it towards the front of the the car, or towards the rear? (see pic below)

Thanks.

 

 

 

DSC00113_zpsiuzsa9wk.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Bargain mint condition Favorit for sale.

Cylinder Head Blocked By Alternator Bracket - Felicia

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Hi all,

 

In the process of removing the cylinder head from our 2000 Felicia 1.3 MPI but it is blocked by the bracket holding the alternator on. I've managed to get the smaller top bracket loose, but that in turn is blocked by the large lower bracket.

Does anyone know the trick to get these out of the way to allow the head to be lifted off?

 

The bracket to the bottom left of the head in this picture:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1059661887461323&l=0d1bd8ff1c

 

There is also another post about it on here but it didn't really make it clear:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/103047-alternator-mounting-blocking-head-removal/

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

No Blow

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Hi All

Been Driving My Felicia For A week Now And Have Found Out The Heater Controls Do Absolutley Nothing, Is This A Common Problem? I've Checked The Fuse (3rd From The Left I Think) It Seems OK.

Will I Have To Replace The Control Panel?

Any Idea's Greatly Apreciated

No spark

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Hi,

I've got a 1992 forman pickup 1.3 carburettor model,

I can't get any spark at the plugs,

Any ideas,

Injection 1.3 , 1.6 fuel pump

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Hi everyone,
I was wondering if there is a different between 1.3 and the 1.6 fuel pump or not ?
And if there is and i can't find the 1.6 fuel pump, is there is any replacement like for instance the golf 4, octavia a4 or polo
I don't know exactly.
So kindly help i'll be grateful...

Cylinder head compability for AEE engine between Skoda, Seat and VW

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Hi, this is my first post here so please be kind if this question has been asked before.

 

I have a Felicia 1.6 -99 with AEE engine and need to replace the cylinder head.

 

I have noticed that Seat and VW also use AEE engines and wonder if a complete cylinder head from any these will drop fit into old and trusty Felicia?

 

//Matz

Skoda Estelle Porsche 500 Replica owner whats more power?

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Done so far, in the pursuit of a better standing start, as the top speed is good.

 

Fitted and tuned replacement Weber 30dic carb

Running k&N filter

Electronic iginition

Free flow performance exhaust

 

What else could i do, within reason and viability??

Different camshaft?

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Favorit/forman upgrade options in China

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Right long story short, I'm currently in China and have actually managed to find an imported skoda forman for very cheap and it comes with all the legal documents that are very difficult to get with a car in this strange country. It needs work but I am slightly worried about part availability so I'm wondering what parts can be retrofitted to one of these? I would love to upgrade parts with later model skoda stuff or maybe vw parts but I have no idea what parts fit and have had very little luck finding information online. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated and I do mean any, like I would be very open to an engine swap if there was an easy enough engine to drop in. 

Felicia gearbox noise? Whistling kettle in 5th gear!

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Hello everyone!

My car has started making a horrible noise in 5th gear that sounds like an old kettle that whistles when boiling.

From my extremely limited mechanical knowledge I have presumed its gearbox related. I've recently had the clutch done and the gear box oil changed so not sure what would cause it?

At the moment I'm driving it but not using 5th gear at all! Difficult on the dual carriageway....

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Felicia fuel gauge issues

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My felicia ran out of fuel recently due to a faulty gauge, if i fill the car up it will show full then make its way down to middle and doesnt come back down. Could this be related to a fuel sender problem or electrical problem ?
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